The remains of a large stone figure of a lamassu, an Assyrian winged bull deity, are piled near the gates of the ancient palace where they once stood at Nimrud, Iraq in this Wednesday, Dec. 14, 2016 photo. Islamic State group extremists detonated explosives throughout the palace, destroying its elaborate reliefs showing gods, mythical beasts and kings, and reducing it t a field of rubble. AP Photo/Maya Alleruzzo
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By
LORI HINNANT, Associated Press, 12/31/16
NIMRUD,
Iraq >> The chilly December wind whipped rain across the strewn wreckage
of a city that, nearly 3,000 years ago, ruled almost the entire Middle East.
Rivulets of water ran through the dirt, washing away chunks of ancient stone.
The
city of Nimrud in northern Iraq is in pieces, victim of the Islamic State
group’s fervor to erase history. The remains of Its palaces and temples, once
lined in brilliant reliefs of gods and kings, have been blown up. The statues
of winged bulls that once guarded the site are hacked to bits. Its towering
ziggurat, or step pyramid, has been bulldozed.
The
militants’ fanaticism devastated one of the Middle East’s most important archaeological
sites. But more than a month after the militants were driven out, Nimrud is
still being ravaged, its treasures disappearing, imperiling any chance of
eventually rebuilding it, an Associated Press team found after multiple visits
in the past month.
With
the government and military still absorbed in fighting the war against the
Islamic State group in nearby Mosul, the wreckage of the Assyrian Empire’s
ancient capital lies unprotected and vulnerable to looters.
“When
I heard about Nimrud, my heart wept before my eyes did,” said Hiba Hazim Hamad,
an archaeology professor in Mosul who often took her students there.
In
three of the AP’s four visits, its team wandered the ruins alone freely for up
to an hour before anyone arrived. No one is assigned to guard the site, much
less catalog the fragments.
Toppled
stone slabs bearing a relief that the AP saw on one visit were gone when it
returned.
Perhaps
the only vigilant guardian left is an Iraqi archaeologist, Layla Salih. She has
visited multiple times, photographing the wreckage to document it and badgering
militias to watch over it. Walking through the ruins on a rainy winter day, she
pointed out things that were no longer in place.
Still,
Salih finds reasons for optimism.
“The
good thing is the rubble is still in situ,” she said. “The site is restorable.”
To
an untrained eye, that’s hard to imagine, seeing the destruction caused by the
Islamic State group. Salih estimated 60 percent of the site was irrecoverable.
The
site’s palaces and temples were spread over 360 hectares (900 acres) on a dirt
plateau on the edge of the Tigris River valley.
A
140-foot-high ziggurat once arrested the gaze of anyone entering Nimrud. Now
there is only lumpy earth. Archaeologists had never had a chance to explore the
now-bulldozed structure.
Past
it, in the palace of King Ashurnasirpal II, walls are toppled into giant piles
of bricks. The palace’s courtyard is a field of cratered earth. Pieces of the
two monumental winged bulls are piled nearby — their heads missing, likely
taken to be sold.
Off
to the left are the flattened remains of the temple of Nabu, a god of writing.
During a Dec. 14 UNESCO assessment tour, a U.N. demining expert peered at a
hole leading to a seemingly intact tomb and warned that it could be rigged to
explode.
From
879-709 BC, Nimrud was the capital of the Assyrians, one the ancient world’s
earliest empires. In modern excavations, the site yielded a wealth of
Mesopotamian art. In the tombs of queens were found troves of gold and jewelry.
Hundreds of written tablets deepened knowledge about the ancient Mideast.
Touring
the site, UNESCO’s representative to Iraq, Louise Haxthausen, called the
destruction “absolutely devastating.”
“The
most important thing right now is to ensure some basic protection,” she said.
But
the government has many priorities. It is still fighting IS in Mosul, and the
list of reconstruction needs is long.
Tens
of thousands of citizens live in camps. Much of the city of Ramadi is
destroyed. More than 70 mass graves have been unearthed in IS territory. Other
ancient sites remain under IS control.
None
of the various armed groups around Nimrud — whether the military or various
militias — has been dedicated to guarding it.
During
the UNESCO tour, Salih noticed that some of the ancient bricks from the rubble
had been neatly piled up as if to be hauled away — perhaps, she suspects, to
repair homes damaged in fighting. Stone tiles at the palace entrance vanished
from where she saw them last.
Two
locals were arrested with a marble tablet and stone seal from Nimrud,
presumably to sell. The men are in custody.
But
it’s unclear where the artifacts seized from them are.
The
police insisted they were at a lab in the northern city of Irbil. The lab said
it knew nothing about them. The Antiquities Ministry in Baghdad said they were
safe in the Nineveh government offices. An official there said they were with
the police awaiting transit to Baghdad.
That
circle of confusion makes theft easy.
Salih
is seeking international funding to pay someone to guard the site. But she
recognizes the job will have to go to one of the militia factions, and she has
no illusions they will provide full protection.
She’ll
have to cajole them into doing as much as they can.
“There
isn’t another choice, as you see,” she said.
Associated
Press photographer Maya Alleruzzo and videographer Bram Janssen in Nimrud; and
Salar Salim and Mohammed Nouman in Irbil, Iraq contributed to this report.
This picture, taken by the U.S. Army in 2008, shows the statues of the lamassu, the winged, human-headed bulls that stood at the gates of the palace
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