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time.com
Lucia De Stefani ,
10/12/2015
Two
Italian reporters traveled nine countries in four years, tracing the most
ancient Christian communities in the world
During
a four-year journey throughout the Middle East – one that placed photographer
Linda Dorigo and journalist Andrea Milluzzi on the trail of Christian
minorities in countries where Christianity originated and took root – the two
reporters, often against their will, adopted what might be considered a
theatrical disguise: they were welcomed as academic researchers in Iran,
confused for a newlywed couple in Syria, and even referred to as a priest and
nun in Gaza.
This
speaks for only a fraction of the adventures that marked their extensive
“pilgrimage” on the trail of secluded Christian minorities, as the reporters
sought them out in the capital cities of Muslim countries such as Damascus, or
in remote Assyrian towns like Qaraqosh, Iraq.
Their
interest in this subject was sparked by a dramatic event – a suicide bomb
attack that shocked a Coptic Christian Mass in Alexandria, Egypt, on New Year’s
Eve 2011. After the news made headlines, it quickly faded from broader media
attention, prompting Dorigo and Milluzzi to start their project.
The
result is
Rifugio – Christians of the Middle East,
a black-and-white photobook and journalistic reportage that documents their
project chronicling the life of Christian communities in nine countries –
Egypt, Lebanon, Israel, Palestine, Jordan, Syria, Turkey, Iran and Iraq.
Milluzzi’s essays and Dorigo’s photographs complement each other seamlessly,
grouped into six chapters, describing what they say is the burdensome and often
heart-rending plight that these minorities endure. Dorigo’s subtle but eloquent
photographs – often blurry, elusive, at time dramatic – capture both joyful
moments and oppressions encountered, illustrating a reality suspended between
the cultural heritage that these communities embody and their minority nature.
“It
has been a discovery, a never-ending discovery really, because surely we began
our journey with an idea in mind of what we were going to look for,” Dorigo
says. “But it is [only] when you travel that you realize that, comparing the
reality of each country, that you can’t equate Christians in Egypt with
Christians in Iran,” she adds.
As
they toured the area, their research brought them to some of the most remote
places in the region, covering events so extraordinary that they seem part of a
different era: In the Old City of Jerusalem, they watched the enactment of the
Via Crucis staged by Capuchin monks in the streets of the Christian Quarter. In
Rojava, in the Syrian Kurdistan, Dorigo photographed the ruins of the last
church in Gharduka, which ISIS jihadists bombed. In Iran’s west Azerbaijan
province, they witnessed the annual Armenian pilgrimage to Saint Thaddeus
monastery, a custom dating back to 68 AD. On that occasion, the ancient church
became their dwelling.
Planning
their trip, Dorigo and Milluzzi avoided hotels and opted for local lodging.
“The more you share, the more you are actually able to go deep in what you’re
documenting,” Dorigo says. “We sought the real stories, inside the houses,
inside the families.”
Some
destinations, however, proved difficult to explore. To reach Syria’s far east
region from its capital, they bypassed ISIS-controlled territories only by
returning to Lebanon, flying to Turkey, taking a bus to Iraq and finally
entering Syria’s east border all in the same day. On another occasion, as
Iranian authorities were after them, they left the country in a couple of days
(but returned after a few months.)
They
gained access to Christian minorities through religious gatherings, local
priests or through the encounters in cosmopolitan Beirut. Surprisingly to them,
more than once the Muslims themselves introduced the reporters to their
Christian neighbors. “That was a beautiful thing,” Dorigo says, “and it really
testifies that a spirit of friendship and brotherhood does exist, despite being
often flattened and even obstructed by a series of propagandistic efforts in
the name of a religious conflict.”
Linda Dorigo is an
independent documentary photojournalist and Andrea Milluzzi is a freelance
journalist. They are based both in Italy and in the Middle East. Their latest
work, Rifugio – Christians of the Middle East, is published by
Schilt Publishing.
Paul
Moakley, who edited this photo essay, is TIME’s Deputy Director of Photography
and Visual Enterprise. Follow him on Twitter @paulmoakley.
Lucia
De Stefani is a writer and contributor at TIME LightBox. Follow her on Twitter and Instagram.
Bethlehem, West Bank. The Catholic Christmas festivity inside the Nativity church. The space inside the church where Jesus was born is assigned to different Christian creeds. Christmas is celebrated four times in Holy Land. December 2012.Linda Dorigo
Saint Taddeus Monastery, Iran. The Black Church is open all night long during the pilgrimage. July 2011.Linda Dorigo
Jerusalem. The guardian of an Ethiopian church showing an ancient copy of the Bible. The Christian community includes Catholics, Orthodox Christians, Egyptian and Ethiopian Coptics between Damascus gate and Jaffa gate. December 2012.Linda Dorigo
Ain Ebel, Lebanon. The Easter Mass. The village is close to the border with Israel and many U.N. soldiers attend the mass. April 2012.Linda Dorigo
Qaraqosh, Iraq. Celebration of the martyrdom of Mar Shimun, one of the first Christian martyrs, killed with her seven children because she refused to convert to Islam. November 2012.Linda Dorigo
Deir Abu Hennis, Egypt. An Orthodox wedding. The Catholic community of the village is a minority, but the relationships between the two denominations are good. During festivities, representatives of each denomination pay tribute to others. July 2012.Linda Dorigo
Gharduka, Rojava, Syrian Kurdistan. Gharduka is on the frontline between the Kurds and ISIS. The village is empty and its only church has been destroyed by the jihadists who bombed it after using it as a trench. January 2014.Linda Dorigo
Kfifan, Lebanon. Every year the monastery of Saint Cyprian and Justina receives hundreds of young seminarists from all over the world. September 2011.Linda Dorigo
Saint Taddeus monastery, Iran. The yearly Armenian pilgrimage. July 2011.Linda Dorigo
Karia Rounta, Iraqi Kurdistan. Wedding celebration. October 2012.Linda Dorigo
Deir Abu Hennis, Egypt. Dancing in front of the bride's house. August 2011.Linda Dorigo
Marmara Sea, Turkey. Many islands of the Marmara Sea were inhabited by Greeks. President Atatürk ordered a population exchange between Turks and foreigners and the Greeks left their lands. August 2013.Linda Dorigo